Installation Time
(approx) 1 Hour
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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This is for those of you that have bent, or otherwise banged up or broken your tie rod on the trails. The tie rod does hang in a location that it can fairly easily be banged up on the rocks. If you're going to be replacing it, you might as well replace it with something much stronger than factory to give you the peace of mind of knowing that's not going to happen the next time you're out on the trail. So this is going to be significantly stronger than that factory tie rod would be, and this is also going to be right around the same price as the other heavy-duty tie rods that are on the market, making this a pretty good choice. This is made out of a 1018 DOM steel tube. So there are no welds. There are no seams. This is solid, drawn-over mandrel tubing, which is going to be very, very strong. It's actually going to be a quarter-inch wall thickness. The tie rods themselves are seven-eighths-inch tie rods. They are a taper fit, so they're going to fit right into those factory steering knuckles without any issues. Of course, this is going to be double-adjustable, so you can very easily set the tow of the Jeep while this is still installed. It comes with your castle nuts, it comes with your grease fittings, and of course with your cotter pins to make sure everything stays together. This also comes preassembled with your jam nuts already set and ready to go. Now, when you do install something like this, I always recommend using a good bit of anti-seize between the tie rod and the rod itself. That'll ensure that you can adjust the tow down the line without things rusting solid. But anytime you have a jam nut in play, you want to make sure that there's no anti-seize underneath the jam nut, or it won't be able to do its job. Getting this installed is going to be a very simple one out of three-wrench installation that shouldn't take you more than an hour to complete. The first step is, of course, removing that factory tie rod, which you'll do by removing the cotter pins, and then removing the castle nuts. Now, depending on the situation of your Jeep, depending on how much rust you have or the last time you removed your tie rod, you may have some trouble getting those castle nuts off with just a wrench or a socket. The castle nut could be fused to the shaft on the tie rod end, and the whole ball could be spinning on the inside of that tie rod end. So you may have to use an impact, whether it's air or power, to get that removed. Once you have the castle nut off, chances are, because these are a taper fit, that the tie rod end is still going to be stuck inside of your steering knuckle. The best way to get that removed is not to hit down on the threaded end of the tie rod end, but actually hit perpendicular to that tie rod end on the steering knuckle. That's going to be the best way to pop that taper fit out. Once you have that removed completely, you can set your old tie rod end on the ground next to your new one, and make some adjustments to get your new tie rod set to the proper length. That's going to affect the tow of your Jeep. Once you roughly have that set, go ahead and set the jam nut, so nothing changes. Get it set into your steering knuckles, and use the castle nuts that are included to get this bolted into place, finally, installing the cotter pins to ensure that those castle nuts can't back out. Now, at this point, you can go ahead and set your tow further if you don't want to go based off of the measurements that you already took. There are a couple of ways to set your tow in your driveway. It is going to be a fairly simple process. At the end of this installation, before you drive down the road, you are going to want to install your Zerk fittings. You're going to want to grease this up and make sure you have plenty of grease on those tie rod ends to ensure that they wear properly. This tie rod comes in at right around $145, and most of the other ones on the website are going to be of a similar price and a similar strength. So I think this is a pretty good buy if you're looking for something stronger than factory. So that's my review of the Rugged Ridge monster tie rod with tie rod ends, fitting your 1997 to 2006 TJ, that you can find right here at extremeterrain.com.
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Build. Rugged Ridge's heavy duty tie rod with tie rod ends is a perfect choice to solve your Jeep's issues with bent tie rods. This high quality replacement part is made of 11.25 OD SAE 1018 steel and features a wall thickness of 0.25 inches. The steel is cold rolled and drawn through dies, and there are no seams or welds, a quality of true DOM tubing, to worry about.
Additional Info. This part features a bolt-on solution for preventing bent tie rods from wheeling with larger tires. Heavy duty 7/8 inch rod ends feature standard tapered ends that will fit stock knuckle applications. You will get one ton strength without any modifications to your steering knuckles. Rugged Ridge backs this tie rod with a 5 year limited warranty for your added protection.
Application. Fits 1997 - 2006 Wrangler TJ models.
Fitment:
Rugged Ridge 18050.51
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Installation Info
Installation Time
(approx) 1 Hour
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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